Storage Suggestions

When a boat is in winter or long-term storage, it still needs some attention to prevent damage caused by "the elements." Indeed, if a boat is not prepared for storage and is neglected, it can suffer more damage than from a serious storm at sea. This is especially true for boats that are "on the hard" for several years. Boat storage at Cherubini Yachts does NOT automatically include preparing the boat for storage or monitoring its condition. These are the responsibilities of the owner, unless special arrangements are made through the yard to provide such services.

Here are some suggestions about how to prepare your boat for storage:

Remove food and clothing

Cans and bottles with liquid should be removed from the boat before winter sets in. When they freeze, they can break and spill their contents into lockers and bilges. Boxes of dry foods should also be removed to avoid attracting animals. Take home bedding and clothing, that otherwise might mildew on the boat

Winterize plumbing

We typically have below-freezing night time temperatures from December into April, so all plumbing systems need to be protected, either with anti-freeze or careful draining. This includes the engine, gen set, water tanks, fresh water plumbing including hot water tank, head(s) and holding tank, bilge pump(s), deck wash pump(s), etc.

Engine

It is desirable to change the oil in the engine just before the boat is hauled, so that the engine will have clean oil for the period of storage. In addition to putting anti-freeze in the sea water cooling system, it may be appropriate to remove the water pump impeller. Diesel tanks are best left filled to the top, to minimize air in the tank which can bring condensation of water into the tank. As for gasoline tanks, the introduction of ethanol into gasoline has complicated storage of fuel because the ethanol absorbs water. Current recommendations are either to empty the tank completely or to fill the tank to 95% (to minimize condensation of more water) and to add a fuel stabilizer. The worst option is to leave the tank about half full. (See Boat/US discussion management of fuel in storage period. )

Batteries

It is essential to prevent batteries from discharging fully. A fully discharged battery looses its effectiveness and can freeze and break, spilling acid. There are several ways to manage the batteries: they can be removed from the boat and kept at home, where they can be charged periodically. You can come down to the boatyard every few weeks and plug in your battery charger. Or you can set up a small solar charger, preferably oriented to the South, to provide a trickle charge that will maintain the batteries.

Cover

A good cover helps a great deal in many ways. A cover minimizes the intrusion of rainwater, dust, and leaves (which can block scuppers). The cover keeps snow off the deck. This is important because when snow melts, water may penetrate under deck fittings, and then freeze at night. The expansion damages the seals of deck hardware, which can result in water penetration below and into deck cores. The cover also blocks solar ultra violent radiation, which damages brightwork and affects painted or gel coat surfaces. At the same time, a good cover enables you to do maintenance work on the boat during the winter.

It is important that the cover has good ventilation. If ventilation is not adequate, there can be condensation inside the boat, and mildew can result. Also the water can damage the finish and affect plywood panels and bulkheads. Especially if the boat is sealed during the summer, the interior temperature and humidity can get very high, with unfortunate damage to finishes, plywood, ceiling covers, etc.

The best cover is a fitted canvas cover over a pipe frame. This type of cover keeps out rain and snow, but breaths when it is dry so it ventilates well. A canvas cover is expensive but lasts several years and is a good investment. Skip Lippincott's canvas shop (856-764-8282), across the street from our yard, makes excellent covers. The pipe frame on this boat (webmaster's) has been used every winter since 1964, and remains in excellent condition. The canvas has been replaced several times.

A good cover is especially important for a small, open boat. Without a cover, leaves and other debris block drain tubes, and rain water accumulates and may freeze.

The inexpensive blue tarps do not always last through one winter and certainly will not last longer. Shrink wrapping keeps the boat dry and clean, but often does not provide adequate ventilation for the summer months.

Masts and rig

Aluminum spars are generally left standing though the storage period. (Wooden masts are often taken down.) If the mast is left up, you should: 1. Slacken the turnbuckles a bit (in cold weather the rigging contracts more than the mast, so they tighten up and put extra stress on the boat.) 2. Take down any roller furler jib. The sail will be unnecessarily damaged by solar UV, can break loose in a storm and tear, and adds to the windage of a boat in the storm. So far, no boat has blown over at our yard, but taking off the roller jib reduces the chance of such a disaster. 3. Take off other sails too, inspect them all, and have them repaired if necessary. (Rick Hendrickson's sail loft is next door.) 4. Tie off halyards so they don't swing and hit the mast in the wind. No reason to damage the finish of the mast and chafe the lines.

Bilge pump/drainage

It is surprising how many boats end up with a lot of water in their bilges. Rain water comes in through open portholes, damaged deck fittings and scupper lines, and along side or inside the mast. We have sadly seen water accumulate in boats over a few years that causes serious damange to the engine, electrical wiring, and bulkheads.

An excellent way to be certain that water doesn't accumulate in your boat is to have a garboard drain plug (available from Buck Algonquin). In addition to keeping the boat dry, it also facilitates cleaning the bilges and draining water tanks. In a pinch, you can easily drill a hole in the hull for drainage -- it will be far easier to plug the hole with epoxy resin later than to deal with the damage caused by water accumulating in the bilge. Using an automatic bilge pump to deal with water the boat is not a good idea; freezing in the winter may damage the pump or its plumbing. Note that some boats have more than one bilge area, so drainage needs to be provided for each one.

Rudder

It is common that water penetrates into fiberglass rudders because it is virtually impossible to have the exit point of a metal rudder shaft perfectly sealed to a fiberglass rudder. In winter, the water freezes, expands and might crack the sides of the rudder. It probably is a good idea to drill a drain hole in the bottom of the rudder so water can escape.

Equipment

Owners should have their own ladders. Ladders should be kept locked to the jack stands, to prervent theft and to prevent their being used to board other boats. Owners should also have their own electrical extension cords.

Regular inspection

Owners should inspect their boats roughly monthly, to check on the condition of the cover, bilge, batteries, etc. to make sure any small problems are fixed and do not become big problems.

For more information contact us.